Beyond the Blues: A Deep Dive into Denim's History, Impact, and Sustainable Future

Denim is everywhere. From luxury runways to construction sites, its versatility, durability, and cultural status make it one of the most beloved textiles in the world. Yet behind its iconic indigo dye lies a supply chain marked by environmental degradation, labor exploitation, and a legacy of overproduction.

But there is another side to the story: a growing movement of manufacturers, technologists, and designers working to clean up denim’s footprint. From regenerative cotton programs to low-impact dyeing systems and textile recycling at scale, a new generation of solutions is emerging—fueled by innovation and a refusal to accept business as usual.

With sustainability moving from buzzword to regulation, the denim industry faces a reckoning: adapt or become obsolete. But let’s start from the beginning.

The Origin Story: From Workwear to Worldwear

Before it became a symbol of rebellion, fashion, or utility, denim was simply a work fabric—born out of necessity, not style. Its journey from 17th-century looms to modern-day wardrobes spans continents, class divides, and cultural revolutions. To understand where denim is headed, we first need to trace where it came from—and how a rugged, functional textile became one of the most influential materials in fashion history.

European Beginnings

Denim’s journey began in 17th-century Europe. The term likely derives from serge de Nîmes, a durable twill fabric made in Nîmes, France. This robust cotton weave became popular for workwear across Europe, prized for its durability and resistance to wear.

Meanwhile, the word “jeans” is believed to come from Gênes—the French name for Genoa, Italy—where indigo-dyed cotton trousers were commonly worn by sailors. Both cities played pivotal roles in the early development of denim.

Photo: Representation of Old Nîmes, France.

The Birth of Blue Jeans

In 1873, Levi Strauss and Jacob Davis transformed denim history by patenting riveted blue jeans in San Francisco. Originally designed for gold miners and laborers, their reinforced trousers combined rugged cotton fabric with copper rivets, setting the blueprint for what would become a wardrobe essential.

A Symbol of Rebellion and Style

By the mid-20th century, denim was no longer just for work. It became a symbol of youthful rebellion in the 1950s, thanks in part to icons like James Dean and Marlon Brando.

Photo: Marlon Brando and James Dean wearing jeans in the 1950s.

From there, denim evolved into a fashion staple, embraced by counterculture movements, high fashion houses, and mainstream markets alike.

The True Cost of Popularity: Environmental and Ethical Impact

Water, Chemicals, and Carbon

According to the 2024 "Innovations and Challenges in Denim Finishing" report by Jeanologia’s Environmental Impact Measuring (EIM) platform—analyzed from over 115,000 real-world finishing processes—the denim industry is beginning to shift toward lower-impact practices. Encouragingly, 63% of the processes reviewed are now classified as having low environmental impact, signaling momentum toward smarter finishing.

However, challenges remain. 24% of the processes still involve hazardous chemicals, especially pumice stones and potassium permanganate, which are known for their harmful effects on both workers and the environment. The industry is being called to accelerate the adoption of safer, more innovative alternatives.

Water use continues to be a critical pressure point. The average water consumption in denim finishing now stands at 30 liters per garment—a modest improvement, but still above the recommended benchmark of 22.5 liters. EIM outlines proven strategies to reduce this impact, including:

• Optimizing rinsing processes

• Choosing fabrics that require less aggressive treatment

• Adopting advanced technologies like ozone, e-flow nanobubbles, and smart foam systems

These numbers make it clear: the tools for progress exist. What’s needed now is faster, wider adoption—especially from major production centers and brand partners who can influence standards across the supply chain.

Source: Jeanologia EIM / WTIN – 2024 Global Report on Denim Finishing

Denim production also accounts for high levels of carbon emissions, due to energy-intensive dyeing and globalized supply chains. Synthetic indigo dye and finishing agents further contribute to waterway contamination and poor air quality in manufacturing hubs.

Labor Exploitation in the Fast Fashion Era

Beyond environmental harm, denim’s rise has come at a human cost. Many factories in low-wage countries operate with minimal labor protections. Reports of long hours, wage theft, and exposure to hazardous chemicals are still prevalent in parts of Bangladesh, India, and Southeast Asia. Unfortunately, it’s still not much different from other areas of fashion production today.

Innovation in the Indigo World: Sustainability at the Source

A New Generation of Mills

As consumers demand better and regulations become the norm, mills and brands are pivoting. The rise of eco-conscious finishing technologies—like laser abrasion, ozone cleaning, and foam dyeing—demonstrates the industry’s push toward clean production.

An important tool for tracking this progress is Jeanologia’s EIM (Environmental Impact Measurement) platform, which helps brands assess environmental impact at the garment level—encouraging continuous improvement and radical transparency.

An interesting source for jeans data and updated industry information is . The platform allows brands to assess environmental impact at the garment level, incentivizing continuous improvement, transparency and pratcises-questioning.

Spotlight: Candiani Denim

Founded in 1938 in Milan, Candiani Denim is now known globally as "the greenest mill in the blue world." Still family-owned, Candiani produces over 25 million meters of denim annually, but with a future-facing model. Under the leadership of Alberto Candiani, the company has integrated multiple sustainability milestones:

• Kitotex®: a patented sizing process made from chitosan (a non-toxic fiber derived from shrimp shells) that replaces harmful PVA chemicals.

• Coreva™: the world’s first biodegradable and compostable stretch denim technology, made from a plant-based elastomer derived from natural rubber. Unlike conventional elastane, Coreva™ allows denim to maintain stretch and recovery while fully breaking down at end-of-life—eliminating microplastic pollution and enabling true circularity.

• Regen™ Denim: biodegradable stretch denim that uses natural rubber instead of petroleum-based elastane.

• Indigo Juice®: a low-impact dyeing technology that drastically reduces water and energy use.

• Regenerative Cotton Projects: Candiani sources cotton from its own regenerative farms, reducing the environmental impact of raw material sourcing.

Their innovations show that legacy brands can (and should!) lead on sustainability without compromising on performance or aesthetics.

Denim as Canvas: Art and Storytelling Through Fabric

Ian Berry and the Aesthetic of Waste

Photo: Sourced from the artist's official Instagram account - @ianberry.art

British artist Ian Berry has reimagined denim as a medium for storytelling. Using only recycled jeans, he crafts hyper-realistic installations and portraits that have been exhibited around the world. Berry’s work not only elevates denim to an art form but also underscores the textile’s cultural weight and post-consumer potential.

His subjects often focus on daily life, nostalgia, and memory—using discarded fabric to create something new, thought-provoking, and inherently sustainable.

Photo: John Lennon by Ian Berry - Source from @ianberry.art

What’s Next: Closing Loops, Not Just Trends

Scaling Sustainable Technologies

Making sustainable denim scalable and affordable is no longer a fringe ambition—it’s a defining industry imperative. Leading players like Candiani and also ISKO and G-Star RA, are paving the way with breakthrough technologies that reduce resource use without compromising quality or design.

ISKO’s Earth Fit® line has become a benchmark for performance denim that’s not only stylish and durable but also made with recycled fibers, certified by standards such as GRS (Global Recycle Standard), and produced using renewable energy. Their R-TWO™ program combines pre-consumer and post-consumer recycled cotton, drastically reducing water and chemical usage.

G-Star RAW, a longtime sustainability advocate, continues to refine its Cradle to Cradle Certified® denim—a product line designed for full circularity. By focusing on recyclable trims, non-toxic dyes, and biodegradable fibers, the brand demonstrates what a closed-loop denim system can look like at scale.

Elsewhere, technologies like foam dyeing (which replaces water in the dyeing process), laser finishing, ozone washing, and e-flow nanobubble technology are dramatically reducing water, energy, and chemical use in denim finishing. For instance, Archroma’s Advanced Denim dyes require up to 92% less water and 30% less energy than conventional dyeing methods.

Spotlight: Saitex—Circularity in Action

One of the most forward-thinking manufacturers globally, Saitex in Vietnam, founded by Sanjeev Bahl, operates a LEED-certified facility where 98% of water is recycled. Sludge from wastewater is transformed into bricks used to build affordable housing, and solar energy powers part of the factory. Their approach merges technological excellence with social innovation—offering a working model of true circularity at scale.

Platforms Driving Access and Transparency

Innovation only works when it’s accessible. That’s where digital sourcing ecosystems come in.

World Collective’s Marketplace bridges the gap between certified textile suppliers and sourcing professionals—especially for small and mid-sized brands that often struggle to access responsible materials. With tools to filter by certification, MOQ, fiber type, and region, the platform brings traceability and compliance into a single, scalable interface.

By aggregating pre-vetted suppliers and verified sustainable materials into one traceable infrastructure, World Collective is making it easier for designers, sourcing teams, and sustainability leads to make better decisions, faster. This kind of access helps democratize sourcing—removing traditional barriers like high volume requirements, opaque pricing, or manual supplier vetting.

A Timeline of Denim: 6 Defining Moments in History

Here's your historical overview of this piece.

1600s: The Birth of Serge de Nîmes

The fabric that would become denim originates in Nîmes, France. Known as “serge de Nîmes,” it was a durable, twill-woven textile used for workwear across Europe.

1873: The Invention of Blue Jeans

Levi Strauss and Jacob Davis patent the first riveted denim trousers for American miners. It’s the official birth of the modern blue jean.

1950s: Denim Becomes Cultural Icon

Worn by James Dean and Marlon Brando, denim becomes a symbol of teenage rebellion and counterculture cool.

1980s–90s: Fast Fashion Fuels Mass Production

As denim becomes a staple in global wardrobes, fast fashion accelerates overproduction and outsourcing, laying the groundwork for today’s sustainability challenges.

2010s: Innovation Sparks Reform

Tech-driven solutions like laser finishing and waterless dyeing emerge. Brands begin piloting sustainable denim programs and certifications.

2020s: Regeneration and Traceability

With global regulations looming, the focus shifts to regenerative cotton, circular design, and traceable supply chains—supported by platforms like World Collective and pioneers like Candiani.

A Smarter, More Connected Future for Denim

The future of denim will not be defined by a single breakthrough but by a collective shift: smarter technology, tighter collaboration, and transparent systems working in sync.

When brands have access to verified suppliers, when mills can scale innovation affordably, and when designers can align creativity with compliance—denim becomes more than just a staple or a long-lasting fabric.

To close the loop, we need to rethink more than materials. We need to rebuild the systems that connect all the players. And that’s already underway.

And… What's next?

Denim has always been a fabric of resilience—weathered, reworn, and reinvented across generations. But as its cultural legacy deepens, so too must our commitment to making it better. From regenerative cotton farming to traceable production systems and textile artistry, the future of denim lies in collective innovation.

Brands, suppliers, artists, and technologists each hold a piece of the solution. When connected through transparent systems and shared standards, denim becomes more than a product—it becomes a platform for progress.

The question is no longer whether we can make denim better. The question is how fast we’re willing to act.

To gain more insights on the much needed industry shift, read: "Stop Looking at Fashion: Why The Industry's Future Belongs to Those Who Think Beyond" by clicking here.

Written by Júlia Vilaça, Communications & Brand Manager @ World Collective