Fashion’s Forever Chemicals: What They Are, Where They Hide, and How to Eliminate Them
May 14, 2025
3
min reading
They’re in our water, our soil, our food—and even in our bloodstream. And yes, they’re also in the clothes people buy and wear everyday.
PFAS, often called “forever chemicals” because they break down extremely slowly over time, were first discovered in the 1930s. That means we've known about them for over 70 years, yet here we are in the 21st century, still trying to regulate their use.
According to Manufacturing Drive, PFAS (short for perfluoroalkyl and polyfluoroalkyl substances) are a group of synthetic chemicals valued for their chemical resistance, heat tolerance, and flexibility.
They've been used in medical devices, aircraft, and electronic devices, and they're a fundamental component of things that that power our lives, like the devices we use every day to talk to our friends and family, like cell-phones and computers.
Specialists say the first type of PFAs (called PCTFE), was discovered in 1934 by two scientists in Germany. But it wasn’t sold to the public until the early 1950s, when a company called M.W. Kellogg (now KBR) started making it under the brand name Kel-F.
Throughout the years, PFAS became a growing concern due to their long-lasting presence in the environment and the human body—posing serious risks to both health and ecosystems.
A recent The Robin Report article quoted Michelle Bellanca, CEO of Claros Technologies, who stated:
“There’s no bigger environmental issue right now touching virtually every aspect of society and industry than PFAS.”
And of course, the fashion industry is no exception.
In fashion, these so-called “forever chemicals” have been widely used for decades, particularly for their stain-resistant, waterproof, and water-repellent properties. Today, the textile industry alone accounts for around 35% of global PFAS demand.
However, the technical "benefits" they offer no longer justify the long-term harm they cause.
For brands still relying on PFAS-treated materials, it’s time to recognize the urgency: these substances need to be phased out, for the sake of people and the planet.
Keep reading to learn how PFAS became embedded in fashion manufacturing—and more importantly, how your business can fully eliminate them from your supply chain.
When and Why PFAS Entered Fashion
From waterproof jackets to stain-resistant uniforms, PFAS have quietly become a backbone of performance in textiles, being used in a wide range of fashion items, including outdoor gear, raincoats, activewear, uniforms, and household fabrics.
When Does it Start Being Used in Fashion?
According to the Minnesota Pollution Control Agency, PFAS have been used in textile and leather production since the mid-20th century. Here's a breakdown of key milestones:
1940s: The use of PTFE (like Teflon) began—initially in waterproof membranes for industrial and medical uses, later expanding into textiles for uniforms and weather-resistant garments.
1950s–2000s: PFOS and PFOA entered widespread use in textile and leather repellency treatments. Popularized through consumer brands like Scotchgard, they offered powerful oil-, water-, and stain-resistant properties for clothing, upholstery, and footwear.
2000s–Today: As health and environmental concerns mounted, PFOS and PFOA were phased out or restricted in many countries. Yet, newer PFAS compounds—like FTOHs and PFBS—have replaced them in many applications, especially in performance wear and personal protective equipment (PPE). Their usage is less documented but still common, keeping PFAS present in the supply chain today.
Why PFAS Became So Common in Fashion
PFAS weren’t a random choice, they were a effective solution to performance demands. Fashion brands, especially in activewear, outerwear, and home textiles, needed fabrics that could:
Repel water, oil, and stains
Withstand repeated washing and abrasion
Maintain breathability in high-performance contexts
PFAS delivered on all fronts because their durability and chemical resistance made them attractive for long-lasting products—ironically, the same traits that now raise red flags due to their persistence in the environment and potential health impacts.
But here’s the turning point: The continued use of PFAS in most textile applications is no longer a technical necessity.
According to the European Environment Agency (EEA), “technological innovation has led to a good range of suitable alternatives for the textile sector.”
In other words, the industry no longer needs to rely on these chemicals to meet performance goals.
Yet, despite available alternatives, many brands and manufacturers have yet to fully transition, due in part to cost structures, supply chain inertia, and gaps in awareness or regulation.
This is exactly where informed sourcing and system-level change are needed.
Where Forever Chemicals Show Up in Your Supply Chain
Although PFAS are invisible to the human eye, their effects are seen throughout the textile lifetime, from finishes and coatings used in production to emissions during washing and wear.
According to the EEA, the chemicals can be released at every stage—from fiber treatment to incineration. That means pre-treated fabrics may include PFAS before your design process even starts if you're sourcing them without checking their chemical composition.
Here’s where they show up in the lifecycle of a garment:
1. Fiber & Fabric Production
PFAS are most frequently introduced at the fiber or fabric finishing step, which is the earliest stage of textile manufacturing.
Here, mills use chemical treatments, like water, stain, or oil repellency, to improve performance. Synthetic materials like polyester and nylon are commonly treated using these methods, particularly for technical sportswear, uniforms, and outerwear.
2. Garment Manufacturing
PFAS may re-enter during the manufacture of clothing even after materials have been made. Additional PFAS-based finishes on seams, padding, or linings may be used by factories to satisfy technical requirements, especially for high-performance clothing's insulation or moisture management.
3. Packaging and Distribution
In addition to living in garments, forever chemicals can also be found in packaging. PFAS coatings may be included in certain plastic packaging materials, labels, and water-resistant hang tags.
This implies that even the materials used to distribute or display your product may release PFAS into the environment.
So, if not closely monitored, PFAS can show up across your entire supply chain, from fiber to finish. But their impact doesn’t stop at production.
As the product “ages”, these chemicals remain in the clothing, endangering the health of the consumer and eventually contaminating ecosystems. Because of this, people became more conscious, which caused regulators and consumers to take notice.
The Rising Pressure: Consumer Awareness + Policy Action
Brands may have overlooked PFAS in the pas, but that’s no longer an option because once a PFAS-treated product is worn, the risks begin.
These chemicals can transfer directly to the body through skin contact, sweat, or even saliva. In fact, research from the Minnesota Pollution Control Agency confirms that PFAS can be absorbed through everyday wear—especially concerning for garments worn close to the skin, like activewear, underwear, or children's clothing.
But the exposure doesn’t stop there. During home laundering, PFAS-coated textiles release microfibers that carry these persistent chemicals into water systems, polluting the environment even after purchase.
The image below, published by the European Environment Agency (EEA), shows just how embedded PFAS are throughout the entire lifecycle, from production to disposal.
Image from: https://www.eea.europa.eu/en/analysis/publications/pfas-in-textiles-in-europes-circular-economy
As the EEA notes, these substances are nearly impossible to remove, recycle, or destroy, undermining any efforts toward circularity.
Given these risks, it's no surprise that consumer concern about toxic chemicals in clothing is rising.
This concern has intensified as new investigations reveal troubling levels of hazardous substances in garments sold by some of the world’s largest ultra fast fashion platforms—including SHEIN, TEMU, and AliExpress.
As reported by Good On You, these findings are raising urgent questions about chemical safety and supply chain accountability in the sector.
On social media, sustainable fashion advocates are amplifying this message. For example, content creator and environmental storyteller Summer Dean, known as @climatediva, recently partnered with OEKO-TEX® to raise awareness about PFAS in everyday clothing.
In a viral Instagram reel, she explains how common these chemicals are in apparel, how difficult they are to identify on labels, and why third-party certifications are essential for transparency and trust.
As public awareness grows, so does the pressure on brands to act—and regulators are following suit.
Global Policy Response
In the U.S., California passed the first law banning intentionally added PFAS in apparel sold after 2025—an action described as historic by Yahoo News.
Other states and regions are following with their own legislation. Bluesign, a company that provides an independent certification system for the textile industry, outlines several key regulatory actions currently shaping PFAS restrictions in the textile industry:
United States
California (AB 1817): Bans intentionally added PFAS in most textiles from January 2025.
New York: Bans PFAS in apparel (exceptions for outdoor gear in extreme wet conditions until 2028).
Colorado: Requires disclosure labels now, moving to a full PFAS ban in outdoor clothing by 2028.
Europe
European Union: Already bans PFCA and PFHxA groups in consumer textiles. The European Chemicals Agency (ECHA) is pushing for a broader ban under REACH that could set a new global standard.
France (Law No. 2025-188): Will ban PFAS in textiles, footwear, and waterproofing sprays for consumer use starting January 2026.
Denmark: Plans to ban the import and sale of PFAS-containing apparel and footwear for consumer use from July 2026.
Removing PFAS from Your Fashion Supply Chain: What Brands Must Do Now
The goal is clear: remove PFAS from your supply chain and shift toward safer, certified alternatives. But the path there requires more than compliance—it demands smarter sourcing, supplier visibility, and a clear understanding of material innovation.
Here’s how to move forward:
1. Rethink Water Resistance: What Are the Alternatives to PFAS?
As we tackled before, PFAS are used primarily to make textiles water-, oil-, and stain-resistant—either through chemical coatings or by weaving PFAS-based materials into the fibers themselves.
But today, safer and more sustainable options exist.
According to Cleantech Group, innovators are developing high-performance solutions that eliminate the need for PFAS altogether. Some are advancing new coating technologies, like silicone-based repellents or dendrimers, which form micro-structures that naturally repel moisture.
Others are exploring PFAS-free fiber alternatives, including modified polyesters and plant-based blends that offer water repellency without persistent toxins.
2. Source Smarter, Not Harder
Having the right material alternatives isn’t enough. You need full transparency to know what’s in the materials you source. That means direct communication with your suppliers, access to chemical data, and better systems for vetting claims.
What to do:
Work Only with Verified Suppliers → Brands need to work exclusively with suppliers who can provide full material transparency and trusted third-party certifications. This means going beyond generic claims like “eco-friendly” or “PFAS-free” and looking for documentation such as OEKO-TEX® conformance.
Use Digital Tools to Your Advantage → Modern compliance and sustainability demand real-time, centralized, and searchable data. Digital sourcing platforms—especially those designed for certified and responsible textiles—can drastically reduce the manual effort involved in vetting suppliers, reviewing certifications, and monitoring PFAS-free claims.
World Collective: Your Go-To Platform for PFAS-Free Textile Sourcing
World Collective has built a sourcing infrastructure designed to equip brands of all sizes with the tools to act—efficiently, responsibly, and in alignment with today’s rising compliance standards.
To start, we curate a vetted selection of certified, sustainable, and PFAS-free textiles, available with low MOQs. This means that whether you’re an emerging brand or a global label, you can access high-quality materials without being held back by scale.
We go beyond product listings. Our marketplace is powered by direct partnerships with trusted mills, suppliers, associations, innovators, and certifying bodies, ensuring that every textile on our platform meets global sustainability, performance, and legal standards.
Here’s how we support your transition to safer, cleaner sourcing:
Search with purpose: Source PFAS-free, certified, or circular-ready materials—backed by documentation.
Verify before you commit: Every supplier profile includes full disclosures on certifications, chemical use, and sustainability credentials.
Communicate clearly: Our transparency tools help you ask suppliers the right questions, compare options, and reduce sourcing risk.
Simplify B2B transactions: From sampling to ordering to payment, you can have an integrated, seamless experience that reduces back-and-forth and accelerates time to market.
Leverage smart logistics: We support efficient inventory and delivery models through logistics partnerships and order tracking tools that help you manage stock, reduce waste, and improve planning.
3. Learn from the Leaders
If you need proof it’s possible, look to the brands already making the shift. Patagonia, for instance, is well into its PFAS phase-out journey.
Their transparent documentation and experimentation with alternative repellents show that the path forward is not only viable—it’s already in motion.
Watch this video to see how they did it.
These brands are already proving that performance and sustainability can go hand in hand without PFAS. As highlighted by National Geographic, here are some of the top labels leading the way in PFAS-free apparel:
Each of these brands has taken meaningful steps to eliminate PFAS from their collections, offering proof that responsible innovation is not only possible, but commercially viable.
The Tools to Phase Out PFAS Are Already Here.
Fashion cannot afford to overlook the toxic legacy of PFAS. They are concealed in technical specifications, integrated into supply chains, and targeted by authorities and customers alike.
The good news? There are safer options and methods available to make this scenario a reality, therefore we don't need to wait for new innovations to take action.
In order to help brands and companies like yours cut through the clutter and create supply chains that are legally compliant, future-ready, and truly in line with environmental responsibility, ecosystems like World Collective's are assisting in the emergence of PFAS-free materials and the standardization of supplier transparency.
The goal of eliminating PFAS in fashion is not far off.
Ready to make it happen?
Browse PFAS-free, certified materials or connect with our team to start building a cleaner, smarter supply chain today.
