France Regulates Ultra-Fast Fashion: What This Tells About Responsibility Becoming the Industry Benchmark
Jun 26, 2025
3
min reading
Back in 2023, media outlets lit up with coverage after half a dozen U.S.-based influencers were invited by Shein to tour its factories, visit a shipping center, and meet workers. The goal? A strategic PR move to “clean up” the brand’s image, hoping those creators would share a favorable narrative.
However, the backlash only intensified. The influencers who posted about their visit were quickly criticized online by people who saw through the effort - calling out the campaign as a gloss-over attempt by a company long accused of forced labor in its supply chain, design theft from independent creators and other unethical procedures.
Fast forward to 2025, and Shein (along with the ultra-fast fashion models) still hasn’t managed the image “clean-up” it hoped for. Instead, the criticism is gaining traction, and it’s no longer restricted to the voices of social media activism.
And the reasonings behind the backlash keeps growing: for the second year in a row, Shein has been named the worst polluter in fashion. And that title isn’t just symbolic.
According to its own 2024 sustainability report, released on June 13th, the company’s carbon emissions spiked by 23% last year, reaching a staggering 26 million tonnes of CO₂ equivalent.
It’s a clear reminder that the backlash is a necessary reckoning the industry can no longer ignore.
However, while activists continue to raise the alarm and call for consumer resistance, a larger question lingers: can activism alone dismantle the machinery of ultra-fast fashion?
One nation is proving it’s not, by stepping forward with what can truly bring change—legislation.
On June 10th, the French Senate approved a legislative framework regulating ultra-fast fashion platforms like Shein and Temu.
Moreover, the law proposes an escalating penalty system, starting with a €5 fee per item in 2025, increasing to €10 by 2030, along with advertising bans and influencer sanctions for promoting ultra-fast fashion.
If implemented, it will be the first law of its kind in the world. And while it’s still moving through the legislative process, the message is clear— governments are beginning to step in and push back against fashion’s race to the bottom..
Thought leaders like Lucillé Mazé, Retail Transformation Lead, are saying it loud and clear:
This isn't policy, it's a wake-up call. France is saying fashion that fuels destruction isn't innovation, it's negligence.
It’s a huge step for retail and end-of-life in the supply chain, but also a signal of deeper changes that can also impact sourcing, sales models, and how other brands scale.
Keep reading to uncover what this means for the future of fashion.
The Reasonings Behind The Law and The Costs of Cheap
Over the past decade, ultra-fast fashion has radically reshaped the market. Take Shein: the brand reportedly launches up to 10,000 new styles daily, producing millions of garments. As a result, the industry’s pace has become not just staggering but also ecologically unsustainable.
And following that, overconsumption spun out of control, because fast fashion didn’t just ramp up production but made clothes cheaper and more accessible than ever. Who wouldn’t want to buy cheap clothing that is not only on trend, but also just one click away?
The result is a wave of global shopping: fast, constant, and often blind to where and how those items were made.
People are buying more clothes than ever: by 2030, global apparel consumption is projected to rise 63 percent, to 102 million tons.
- Quote from McKinsey & Company
Beyond overproduction and waste, labor rights violations also play a key role.
Following a scheduled visit to Shein’s factories, the BBC called out serious labor rights violations within the company’s supply chain, reporting: “The beating heart of this empire is a workforce sitting behind sewing machines for around 75 hours a week, in direct violation of Chinese labour laws.”
The brand has also been accused of using cotton linked to forced Uyghur labor and even child labor accusations came to the surface, all while still contributing to a global market saturated with clothing often made for short-term use.
Image created by AI artist Emanuele Morelli | Sourced from: Emanuele Morelli’s Linkedin Post
The image above is an AI-generated artwork by Emanuele Morelli’s: a fictional Shein billboard showcasing a woman’s dress made entirely of waste. Widely shared across social media and by activists, it has become a striking symbol of what the brand represents.
As RETAILBOSS put it, “It’s a towering symbol of what we’ve normalized in the name of “style” and “affordability”-a monument to excess consumerism. ”
France’s new law proposal is a direct response to this ultra-fast fashion model, reflecting a growing concern over the damage this business model has caused.
Let’s recap what the law includes:
Advertising Ban → The law will prohibit advertising for ultra-fast fashion brands, including influencer marketing, in an effort to reduce their visibility and curb consumer demand.
Eco-Score Labeling → A new "eco-score" system will rate the environmental impact of garments, factoring in carbon emissions, resource use, and recyclability.
Eco-Taxes → Brands with low eco-scores could face financial penalties, starting with a €5 tax per item in 2025, rising to €10 by 2030.
According to France’s Minister for Ecological Transition, Agnès Pannier-Runacher, as highlighted in a France 24 article, it’s “a major step in the fight against the economic and environmental impact of fast fashion, and a strong signal sent to businesses and to consumers.”
The outlet notes that Pannier-Runacher has called fast fashion a "triple threat", because it promotes overconsumption, causing ecological harm, and threatening local French clothing businesses.
With this law, France aims to bring those issues to the forefront and tackle them head-on, from a sustainability and economic perspective.
But while this may look like progress on paper, not everyone is convinced it's enough.
“A missed opportunity”: Activists Say Fashion Needs More
While new regulations that push for sustainability and reduced production are always a step in the right direction, there's always another side to the coin and room for improvement. In fact, not all activists have welcomed France’s new regulation with open arms.
According to Euronews, environmental organizations have voiced concerns that the revised bill lacks the ambition originally hoped for. Pierre Condamine, campaign manager at Friends of the Earth France, told the outlet that focusing on just two brands overlooks the broader picture - with those companies accounting for only a fraction of what makes up nearly 90% of clothing production and sales in France.
In his words, “We had the opportunity to push for real environmental ambition. But ultimately, it’s clear that economic protectionism has taken precedence over ecological urgency — and that’s deeply disappointing.”
Big fashion influencer Brett Staniland (@twinbrett) also shared on TikTok that it was “a bit disappointing” that the regulation targets only ultra-fast fashion platforms like Amazon, Shein, and Temu and not other fast fashion brands such as H&M, Zara, and Pretty Little Thing.
Still, he emphasized the importance of holding companies like Shein accountable, stating:
"Shein are incomprehensibly larger than most other fast fashion brands, and preventing them from marketing and using influencers will impact how much people buy from them and slow them down. I think this bill is a promising start, and I hope we can eventually get to the same level of sanctions for the rest of the fast fashion brands."
And while many agree there’s still room for improvement, France’s action signals something bigger: regulation is accelerating across the globe.
The Bigger Signal: Regulation Is Accelerating
France’s move is just one part of a broader attempt to rein in fashion’s unchecked impacts. Around the world, governments are beginning to respond to growing public pressure and industry criticism with regulatory proposals aimed at increasing transparency, accountability, and sustainability. Some that are worth noting are:
Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR)
Since January 1, 2025, EU member states are required to implement separate collection systems for textile waste. This regulation expands producer responsibility to cover the entire lifecycle of textiles — from collection and sorting to recycling and reuse.
Digital Product Passport (DPP)
Set to be introduced by the end of 2025, the DPP will give consumers access to key product information, including environmental impact and sustainability metrics. It’s expected to be delivered via web portals and embedded data carriers directly on products, creating radical transparency for textiles.
Corporate Sustainability Due Diligence Directive (CSDDD)
Implemented in July 2024, the CSDDD requires large companies to identify, prevent, and mitigate human rights and environmental risks across their entire supply chains.
New York’s Fashion Sustainability and Social Accountability Act
This proposed legislation would compel brands to map at least 50% of their supply chains and disclose social and environmental impacts, adding legal teeth to sustainability claims.
California’s Responsible Textile Recovery Act (CA SB 707)
This bill introduces a statewide system for managing textile waste, potentially reshaping how fashion businesses source, produce, and handle end-of-life materials.
For a deeper dive into fashion-focused EU regulations, this piece is worth checking: Breaking Down EU Regulations for Fashion: A Roadmap for Brands
These are just some of the many regulations spiking up. It’s far from a full solution, and many of these efforts remain limited in scope or enforcement. But collectively, they signal a shift, where responsibility may be giving way to a new baseline of legal obligation.
What This Means for Brands and Suppliers
It’s crucial to note that the wave of regulation sweeping through fashion isn’t limited to larger brands. While high-profile cases like Shein or Temu grab the headlines, the ripple effects of policy reform will shape the operating environment for small and mid-sized brands, too.
Especially as the EU, the US, and other markets begin implementing laws throughout the value chain. For example, many of the policies already underway in the EU apply to companies of all sizes. A few key examples:
Traceability Rules → Brands will need to track and disclose where materials come from, how products are made, and their environmental footprint.
Digital Product Passport (by 2027) → Mandatory for all apparel sold in the EU. Getting ahead now means smoother compliance and a serious competitive edge.
Sustainability Reporting → Regular updates on emissions, resource use, and waste will be required. Transparency isn’t optional anymore. It’s the new baseline.
The EU has acknowledged the need to ease the burden on SMEs. As stated in their official press release, they aim to “ensure that sustainability reporting requirements on large companies do not burden smaller companies in their value chains.”
Taking a broader view, regulation isn’t stopping at the US and EU. Canada, for example, is a key reference in the global crackdown on greenwashing, which can be exemplified by last year’s amendment to the Competition Act’s Deceptive Marketing Practices provisions - a landmark move aimed at curbing misleading sustainability claims and requiring brands to back up their narratives with clear, verifiable information.
Building on that foundation, this year’s June 9, the Canadian Competition Bureau released its final guidelines on environmental claims. The goal is to help businesses, including smaller brands, understand how to craft accurate, credible, and compliant sustainability statements.
The guideline is already resonating with Canadian business owners. The owner of Blue Sky Clothing, a fashion brand, shared how the new guidance is prompting meaningful action: “It’s going to make me hurry up and get my certifications on the website — to make sure people really understand what we’re doing and make that clearer to the public.”
Ultimately, resilient sourcing is becoming a necessity. The choices brands make today — wherever they operate around the globe — will play a key role in how prepared they are for what’s ahead.
And it calls for more than surface-level compliance, but structural recalibration. For SMEs, that means interrogating how sourcing models, supplier relationships, and product development cycles are set up.
It’s about shifting from a speed-and-volume mindset to one built on longevity, accountability, and traceability.
The Benefits of Early Compliance for SME Brands
Getting ahead of these shifts means rethinking the system behind your collections:
→ What data do your suppliers provide?
→ Can your materials and production cycles stand up to scrutiny?
→ Are you building relationships that support long-term accountability?
And for SME brands, addressing these questions now (not later) is essential. Proactive, policy-aligned compliance unlocks key advantages, including:
Earn Loyalty Through Clarity → Today’s consumers want accountability, which makes transparency a trust-builder. Tools like digital product passports and traceability platforms empower brands to showcase the real story behind every product, fostering deeper, more meaningful connections.
Data-Driven Decision Making → Traceability tools and compliance frameworks generate valuable data. This insight can drive smarter sourcing, inventory management, and forecasting, supporting both sustainability and business resilience.
Access to Partnerships and Retailers → Large retailers, marketplaces, and procurement platforms are also complying to ESG requirements. Brands that can demonstrate compliance early are more likely to secure shelf space, partnerships, and B2B opportunities.
Lower Risk Exposure → Compliance helps reduce legal, reputational, and operational risks. Avoiding fines, audits, and last-minute product redesigns gives brands a more stable runway for growth.
Tha Landscape for Suppliers
For suppliers, especially those already building toward certification and transparency, this is a positioning opportunity. As brands look for sourcing partners who can help them adapt to a regulated future, those who can deliver proof will rise to the top.
That’s why agility, transparency, and proximity to serious buyers will be competitive advantages for suppliers from now on.
And the connective tissue between these players? Platforms and systems that facilitate trustworthy, verifiable supply chain connections. In a future shaped by regulatory accountability, those networks will be essential infrastructure.
Successful suppliers understand that sourcing isn’t just transactional—it’s relational.
— Quote from How to Showcase Your Sustainable Textiles Effectively: A Guide for Suppliers
In other words, as regulation increases, intentionality will matter more than volume. And businesses (both brands and suppliers) that lead with values will be better positioned than those that rely on market dominance alone.
World Collective: Building the Sourcing Infrastructure Fashion Needs Now
As regulation accelerates and expectations around traceability rise, fashion’s sourcing systems need a reset - and solutions like World Collective’s exists to support the very shift this new era demands.
Our Ecosystem’s main solution, our Marketplace, connects brands, mills, and suppliers through transparent, verified, and impact-driven transactions.
Whether you're a small brand seeking low-MOQ sustainable textiles or a supplier looking to connect with serious buyers, we offer the tools to make responsible sourcing easier:
Every supplier on the platform is vetted for standards that go beyond certifications - factoring in social and environmental credibility.
Our system facilitates end-to-end visibility, from first sampling to final purchase.
We have digitized the sourcing process to reduce friction, increase access, and bring traceable materials into more collections.
And we’re doing it for those who often lack the bandwidth or leverage to navigate complex sourcing environments, but who are leading fashion’s values shift from the ground up.
That’s why World Collective is not only a platform but a response to a systemic gap. One that brings designers, suppliers, and innovators into the same ecosystem, where aligned goals around sustainability, compliance, and accountability can actually be met.
France’s move to regulate ultra-fast fashion is just the beginning. As governments, consumers, and institutions demand more from the fashion industry, brands and suppliers will need sourcing solutions that are built to withstand scrutiny and to drive change.
Explore how World Collective can support your next sourcing step → world-collective.com
Written by Maria Eugênia Lima, Content & Marketing Intern at World Collective
