Why Collaboration Matters: For Emerging Designers and the Future of Fashion

In the mid-20th century, designers had full creative oversight. As Liroy Choufan notes in his 2024 academic article, they managed everything from the aesthetics of a product to its production quality—often working locally, directly, and with deep control over how their designs came to life.

However, that changed as fashion globalized. Designers began partnering with global corporations to grow their brands.

And these partnerships offered reach and revenue, but also required sacrifice: production was outsourced, subcontracting became the norm, and creative control fragmented across layers of supply chains.

Designers traded control for scale, and for a time, that was the cost of success.

But fast forward to 2025, and a new problem has emerged.

If yesterday’s designers had to choose between autonomy and amplification, today’s emerging designers often don’t even get the chance to make that trade. Because now, investment is the barrier.

A recent Business of Fashion article titled “Has Fashion Given Up on Emerging Designers?” captured this tension with clarity. In the article, the author converses with Giancarlo Giammetti (Valentino co-founder) and others at a Milan fashion event, highlighting serious concerns about the fashion industry's neglect of emerging designers.

How many new brands have been created? I don’t know... I don’t think that the big conglomerates want to put money in somebody new... To invest in one talent? I haven’t seen anything.

In addition, the article includes voices like Sara Sozzani Maino, who also laments the lack of institutional support: “It’s been hard to find financial support from the Italian fashion industry… The vast majority of brands declined to help.”

The BoF piece paints a hard truth: many young designers are building in a system that still feels structurally indifferent to their survival. But it’s equally important to recognize that change doesn’t only happen at the top. Sparks of progress are already in motion.

And today, it’s undeniable that collaboration and community-building have always been part of fashion’s DNA—and they remain just as vital now. As Vincent Grégoire, a Forbes Councils Member, put it in a recent piece: “Collaborations are engines for value creation.”

So keep reading to see how major players have driven innovation by partnering with startups and emerging designers—and why these collaborative models matter to SME’s businesses and brands.

STATION F: When Legacy Brands Invest in Community

Located in Paris' 13th arrondissement, Station F is the biggest startup campus in the world. more than a hub for tech founders and innovators, it also houses La Maison des Startups, an LVMH-led accelerator designed to support early-stage companies that could shape the future of fashion, beauty, and luxury.

Image sourced from: https://lamaisondesstartups.lvmh.com

With La Maison des Startups, LVMH is betting that the future of luxury won’t come from internal R&D alone but from engaging with outside thinkers, creatives, and technologists who are already building what’s next.

In an interview with Forbes Brazil, Isabelle Fagianelli, Digital Transformation Director at LVMH, expressed that this program is seen as a win-win relationship, in which they reach beyond new businesses, partnerships, and collaboration—also gaining an internal cultural transformation by mixing the business environment with that of startups. That’s why the working space is also a shared one.

The hub reflects a growing recognition that luxury’s legacy can thrive when it's balanced with real investment in innovation—and when that innovation is fueled by partnership.

It’s also about understanding that innovation isn’t limited to high-tech solutions or billion-dollar ventures, but rooted in creativity, experimentation, and the freedom to build something new together.

Moreover, other major houses have also tested what’s possible when established brands support emerging voices:

Other Success Stories: When Big Fashion Backed Emerging Designers

In 2021, MATCHESFASHION’s Innovator Series brought together then emerging designer Harris Reed with ETRO to create an exclusive capsule collection.

The capsule featured flowy blouses with classic Etro prints and rich, statement bows—channeling Reed’s unmistakable flair for maximalism. It was a fresh, creative partnership that really brought out the strengths of both collaborators.

As a young designer, their support is invaluable and it is a dream come true to collaborate with the fashion house.

In the 2010s, Donatella Versace turned the Versus Versace line into a launchpad for emerging designers like Christopher Kane, JW Anderson, and Anthony Vaccarello.

While the Versace name remained the headline, these collaborations gave rising talents crucial exposure, creative mentorship, and a powerful career boost.

The Vogue Business article spotlighting these partnerships included insights from industry veteran Julie Gilhart, Chief Development Officer at Tomorrow London, who emphasized the power and potential behind these kinds of collaborations.

Inviting young creative direction reintroduces the brand to a new generation, diversifying beyond its core customer [to reach]niche, but valuable and influential communities.

Photo: Dolce & Gabbana (sourced from www.voguebusiness.com)

All of this underscores a truth: when legacy brands create space for emerging talent—rather than simply drawing from it—fashion evolves in meaningful, future-facing ways.

Moreover, beyond the realm of luxury houses, other major brands ave leaned into partnerships with emerging businesses to foster community and drive broader impact. Let’s take a look at a few more examples:

The Importance of Collaboration and Storytelling for SMEs—And How to Choose Them Wisely

For small and emerging fashion brands, the appeal of collaborating with a major house is clear: increased visibility, access to wider audiences, borrowed credibility, and the chance to align with a brand that already holds space in the market.

But not all partnerships serve your long-term vision—and the most successful collaborations are those rooted in something deeper than PR. They’re built on creative alignment, intentional storytelling, and shared values.

In today’s landscape, where audiences are more skeptical and values-driven than ever, authenticity needs to be the foundation to every brand’s movements. And the strongest stories are grounded in storytelling, community, and purpose.

• According to a Stackla survey on post-pandemic consumer shifts, 88% of consumers say authenticity is a key factor when deciding which brands they support.

• WGSN’s Future Consumer 2027 report found that 85% of Gen Z globally believe it’s important for brands to foster a sense of community.

This means it’s not enough to partner up—you need to partner right.

When collaborations reflect a real creative exchange, a shared story, and a commitment to innovation, they become more than a moment. They build equity. They build movement.

So how can emerging brands position themselves for meaningful collaborations with big houses?

Here are five strategic steps:

1. Be part of a digital sourcing ecosystem.

Platforms like World Collective are designed to connect emerging brands with global suppliers—and increasingly, with investors and larger players seeking credible innovation. These ecosystems help you build visibility, demonstrate operational readiness, and plug into networks that major brands trust.

2. Build your brand around more than products.

Legacy brands are drawn to designers who represent a clear point of view. Define your values, your creative identity, and your narrative. Make it visible in everything from your sourcing practices to your packaging.

3. Start with aligned independents.

Look for partnerships with mid-sized or like-minded brands where collaboration can be mutual, not hierarchical. These projects often lead to larger visibility and organic momentum.

4. Share your story consistently and with clarity.

Whether through social media, press kits, or in-person events, invest in your storytelling. The more clearly you communicate who you are and why you create, the more likely you are to attract the right partners, not just any partner.

The bottom line?

Strategic partnerships aren't shortcuts—they’re amplifiers, but only when they’re built with intention.

A Beyond-the-Norm Example: How a Brand Grew Through Storytelling and Purpose

Lela Brandão Co. is a Brazilian fashion brand created by Lela Brandão—digital influencer, business owner, content creator, and fashion specialist.

She’s also a Forbes Under 30 honoree and a TEDx speaker. Today, her brand is one of the most recognized in the country, and it all started during the pandemic.

At the heart of it all is one purpose: helping women feel more confident and comfortable in their own bodies. As Lela shared in one of her podcast episodes, that purpose isn’t just a mission—it’s the base of everything.

Every campaign, every decision, every collection is shaped by that value. And she brings it to life through storytelling, community, and an unapologetically authentic approach.

Image sourced from: www.uol.com.br

Her content is casual, human, and real: simple visuals, raw formats, and an unfiltered tone that connects. She shows up as herself. And that’s what built trust and what built her brand.

What started as a small business, an SME fashion brand, grew into one of the most admired names in Brazilian fashion.

Over time, big brands took notice. She was invited to collaborate with major national names—and, notably, was approached by the team behind world-renowned artist Tarsila do Amaral to co-create an official collection inspired by the artist’s legacy. It was a moment that reflected not just Lela’s reach, but the cultural relevance she built through authenticity and purpose.

It’s a powerful reminder: when your brand is rooted in truth, people notice. You don’t always have to chase visibility. Sometimes, being real is what brings it to you.

The Role of Digital Fashion Ecosystems in This Movement

Have you ever heard the term digital ecosystem in fashion? It’s a new momentum quietly gaining ground in the industry—and it’s set to reshape how fashion players connect, grow, and collaborate.

If we think about some of fashion’s biggest hurdles today, a few things come to mind: disconnection, lack of access, geographic barriers, and supply chains that weren’t built with small or emerging brands in mind. The gaps are real—and they slow down innovation.

What the fashion industry needs now is something beyond one-time collaborations or scattered bridges. It needs a structured, connected web that supports everyone—from independent designers to global suppliers.

That’s what a digital fashion ecosystem sets out to do.

So What Does That Look Like in Practice?

It looks like World Collective—a digital fashion ecosystem currently being built to offer this foundation.

One of our ecossystem’s integrations is our textile sourcing marketplace. It’s live, working, and helping brands and designers source responsibly and efficiently today.

Through it, you can:

• Browse vetted, global suppliers in one place

• Access real-time product specs and certifications

• Order samples and materials without massive order volumes

• Source authentic and unique fabrics from around the world

• Find options at multiple price points—from 100% cotton to COBOO leather and premium linen

• Trace your sourcing journey with confidence

And it's only the beginning. Around that marketplace, we’re building a broader infrastructure—one designed to support every part of fashion’s supply and sourcing journey: from verified certifications and supplier vetting to smart logistics, traceability, and impact tools.

Here’s a glimpse of what the ecosystem is growing to include:

• Certifications & Vetting

• Traceability & Transparency

• Data & Forecasting

• Supplier Matchmaking

• New Materials & Sustainability Resources

• Education, Tools, and Content for SMEs

• Automation & AI-Driven Sourcing

• Government Engagement & Social Impact Partnerships

And it’s all being shaped by a team that understands the system—from supply chain experts to fiber technologists to sustainability strategists.

Click here to explore our marketplace (powered by Tengiva) and what we are building towards the one and only ecosystem fashion will see.

And to stay updated with our ecosystem’s launches, follow us on Instagram and LinkedIn.

Written by Maria Eugênia Lima, Content & Marketing Intern at World Collective